# Selvage (Selvedge) — Boring Label Textile Glossary

*Selvage (selvedge) is the self-finished edge of a woven fabric that prevents unravelling. In knitting, the equivalent is the edge formed when tubular fabric is slit open for flat processing.*

*Boring Label · boringlabel.com · hello@boringlabel.com*

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## Understanding the Term

### The edges that hold fabric together.

In woven fabric, the selvage is formed by the weft thread turning back at each edge of the loom. This creates a tightly bound edge that won't fray — the fabric's built-in finish. Denim enthusiasts prize selvage denim for its clean edge finish and the quality signalling it represents.

In circular knitting (how t-shirt fabric is made), there's no traditional selvage. The fabric is a continuous tube. If the tube is slit for flat processing, the cut edges need to be controlled through tension and finishing rather than woven structure.

For garment construction, selvage edges are useful reference points — they indicate the fabric's grain direction and can be incorporated into hems for a raw, unfinished aesthetic popular in premium denim and some knitwear.

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## Why It Matters

### How fabric edges affect garment construction.

The overlooked detail that signals quality.

- **Fabric Integrity** — Clean selvage edges prevent fraying during cutting and sewing. They're the starting point for precision garment construction.
- **Grain Alignment** — The selvage runs parallel to the warp (length) grain. Using it as a reference ensures pattern pieces are cut on-grain, which affects how the garment hangs and drapes.
- **Quality Indicator** — In weaving, a clean, tight selvage indicates proper loom tension and quality control. In knitting, consistent edge tension indicates well-maintained machinery.

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## Our Standard

### Precision-controlled edges.

Our circular-knit Supima fabric is processed with controlled tension to ensure consistent edges when slit for flat cutting. Every panel is cut on-grain using edge references, ensuring the finished garment hangs correctly and doesn't twist after washing.

- **0°** Twist — On-grain cutting eliminates post-wash garment twist

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## Selvage — your questions, answered.

Understanding fabric edges.

**Does your t-shirt fabric have selvage?**

Our circular-knit fabric doesn't have traditional woven selvage. But we maintain controlled edges during processing that serve the same purpose — clean references for on-grain cutting.

**What's the connection to selvage denim?**

Selvage denim is woven on narrow shuttle looms that produce a finished edge. It's prized for the craftsmanship it represents. Our knitting process is different but we share the same attention to edge quality.

**Does on-grain cutting really matter?**

Absolutely. Off-grain cutting causes garments to twist after washing — the side seams migrate forward or backward. On-grain cutting prevents this entirely.

**Why does selvage fabric cost more?**

True selvage fabric is produced on shuttle looms — vintage mechanical looms that weave a continuous weft thread that loops back at each edge, creating the finished self-edge. Shuttle looms are slower and produce narrower fabric (typically 28–36 inches) than modern projectile or rapier looms. The slower production rate and narrower width increase cost per metre significantly. Selvage denim, for example, may cost 3–5× more to produce than standard denim.

**How can you identify genuine selvage fabric?**

Look at the raw edge of the fabric — genuine selvage has a clean, tight, self-finished edge with no cut threads or overlocking. On selvage denim, the woven edge is often left exposed in the seam and rolled outward to display it. For most t-shirt knits, selvage is less relevant — knit fabrics do not unravel like wovens, so the cut edge requires less finishing.

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## See It in Practice

The details you don't notice are the ones we got right.

Free returns · 30 washes guaranteed · ₹1,299

**Shop:** https://amzn.to/3P2XaNk

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